When we left off, we were heading up the river without a paddle. Two hours up the Napo River, then a short walk followed by a half hour paddle through the lagoon. There were paddles, but we were not responsible for using them. Which is a good thing for all concerned. The first part of the paddle trip felt like the Disney Jungle Cruise ride, but without the animatronic critters.

What should we know about the Amazon basin?

It is the world’s largest drainage system, covering 34-40% of South America across nine countries. 

The Amazon Basin is Earth’s most biodiverse region, holding 10% of known species, producing 20% of the world’s oxygen, and featuring a second, underground “river” (the Hamza). It’s so vast that its thick canopy blocks rain from reaching the floor for up to 10 minutes.

 25% of modern western medicines contain ingredients derived from rainforest plants, yet fewer than 1% of Amazonian plant species have been scientifically tested for their medicinal properties. 

The Rio Napo is a tributary of the mighty Amazon. We would be in and around Yasuni National Park, nearly 4000 square miles of virgin tropical rainforest. Our home for 4 days and 3 nights was the sublime La Selva Eco-Lodge located off the Rio Napo on Garzacocha Lagoon.  La Selva has 15 panoramic and 4 family rooms, all quite spacious with balconies overlooking the lagoon. All meals and activities (other than spa treatments) are included. Activities are guided by a naturalist and a native guide and include canoe explorations, hikes, a climb up the canopy platform, trips to a local community and a parrot clay lick. Paul, our naturalist who heads the program was amazing- extraordinarily knowledgeable and our guide Mendardo, noticed things that seem impossible to discern by the human eye.

The food was fantastic. Both beautifully presented and flavorful.

And while the food produced by chef Elvis is fantastic, especially considering that all supplies travel up the river, over land to the lagoon then a half hour paddle canoe trip, that is not why you come to this remote spot.

The accomodations are excellent. No air conditioning, but the temperature was comfortable and the ceiling fan cooled things off nicely. The biggest atmosphric challenge is the damp. The rainy season was just beginning, it rained for a bit as we traveled up the Rio Napo, but the sun came out by the time we arrived. It rained every evening we were there, but once our explorations were over for the day it didn’t matter. We were fitted with rubber boots to wear when out hiking and one of the guides always carried a dry bag of rain ponchos, so we were never uncomfortable. But once things were damp or wet, they did not dry out quickly. If you travel to the rainforest you have to expect rain!

Days here are busy, the usual wake up knock on the door is at 6:30, breakfast at 6:45 and we are off on the morning exploration at 7:30. We’re back around 11, lunch is at 1 so there is time to relax before we head out again around 4:00 or 4:30 getting back in time for dinner at 7:30. One afternoon we came upon giant otters and followed them around watching their antics, another we scouted for monkeys and birds. One afternoon we took the opportunity for a night hike to see things that don’t come out during the day. The sun doesn’t need to have set for it to be dark under the thick canopy. Sounds reverberate though the forest as we listen for wildlife and watch for subtle movements around us. Another evening we watched the sun set then the stars come out, identifing the constellations visible from this priviledged spot near the equator.

In summary, we saw all 7 primates, more birds than I can count, assorted creatures in their natural habitat that I would not want in mine (tarantulas I am talking to you) amazing trees and plants. We ate fantastic food, met talented guides and spent time with interesting travel companions. If you have the chance to be in that part of the world it is well worth it, it was an amazing trip.

So speaking of that part of thef world, our adventure is just beginning. The highlight is yet to come. Stay tuned for the next post for more….