Greetings friends!

I had intended to post long before now, but stuff happened. Holiday stuff, family stuff, Covid stuff- at one point over the holidays the covidians outnumbered the caretakers 3-2. It was not the holiday any of us wished for, but I am grateful those stricken are recovering and that we have five bedrooms and enough bathrooms to keep the infected apart from the healthy.  More on this tale another time, but the last sufferer departed yesterday so let’s turn our attention to a happier topic: Antarctica.

Huh, you say, why on earth did you decide to go there? In the five years that have elapsed since I started researching this adventure, I have honestly forgotten my original motivation. But with each trip cancellation, the desire to finally get there only grew, like a dessert mirage that shimmers right out of reach, becoming more magical with each unsuccessful attempt. Could the reality possibly live up to the anticipation built by the multiple cancellations over the last few years?   The answer: yes, the trip far exceeded my high expectations in ways I could not have imagined. There is so much to tell- this will take a while, but I will bring you along for this ride of a lifetime.

When we told people we were going to Antarctica the response was either, “wow, how cool” or “whaatttt? Why? Is there anything there?” I asked people on the trip their reasons for going. Many had been inspired by others who had made the journey and their stories of the incredible wildlife and scenery. Others mentioned the “call of the wild”, the perhaps fleeting chance to see one of the last places on the planet still more or less in its natural state. For some Antarctica was the last of the seven continents (Rob and I were among the “slacker” group, only racking up six). The most common answer was wildlife- specifically Penguins. The Australians, where Covid travel restrictions were much more restrictive than ours, were really, really ready to go pretty much anywhere. But excited for adventure in this unspoiled environment with its copious wildlife. Our itinerary included the Falklands and South Georgia Island, the latter a remote place with a human population of 30 and over 1 million penguins, (mainly the magnificent King Penguins) along with fur seals, gigantic Elephant seals and birds of all kinds. Plus, majestic mountains, glaciers and history- the grave of Ernest Shackleton and the culmination of the amazing survival story of the Endurance. South Georgia was the key factor in most of us choosing this specific trip and cited afterwards as the highlight.

So how do you get there? The most common way is by ship, though where they can go and with how many people is limited to preserve the wildlife and natural environment. This is governed by a variety of treaties and agreements, administered through IAATO,  International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators. There are about 50 ships that travel the Antarctic waters every year, but only those with less than 500 passengers can go ashore, landing no more than 100 people at a time. You get from ship to shore on zodiac boats, sturdy rubber boats with outboard motors than hold around a dozen people. Ships all have a crew of naturalists and expedition leaders who drive the zodiacs, guide on land describing the animals, plants, glaciers and natural environment and give lectures on ship so we are prepared for what we are going to see. The team on this trip was extraordinary and was the group on our earlier Greenland/Iceland trip on another cruise line. This trip was on Ponant, a French expedition cruise line that isn’t well known in the US (though you will see them marketed through Tauck and Abercrombie and Kent.) The passengers on this trip were about 40% French speakers with the rest speaking English – Australians being the most numerous, followed by US, Britain, New Zealand and a group of Malaysians. The expedition team was international- led by an American, the delightful Shelly from Alaska, made up of French, German, Scottish and a few other nationalities with specialties including birds, marine mammals, history, plants, marine biology (whales) and a glaciologist. These interesting and dedicated people really make the trip.

What’s the ship like:

Expedition ships are different than the cruise ships you see on TV commercials. They are smaller, max holding 500 passengers, most seem to be in the 200 range, some 100 or under which maximizes the time each passenger can be on land. The ships carry zodiac boats, these being the vehicles that go between the ship and land, as well as scenic cruising around the icebergs. Most have sea kayaks, and a few carry submarines and helicopters. These ships are all about the destination and what amenities are necessary to enhance that. Our ship, Le Boreal, has a main dining room that can hold every passenger, a casual buffet restaurant, a couple of bars/lounges, a spa and a gym. The staterooms are on the small side compared to Seabourn Venture or Silver Muse, but efficient with good storage space. The water closet separate from the bathroom is a convenient feature. Despite the size, the ship doesn’t feel crowded. You will end up sharing tables at meals and in a seating area in the lounges. The vibe is very friendly, Hi I am Barb, may I join you, is just how it goes; before long you feel like you have met everyone and maybe you have. It also helps that everyone is here for the same things, no “what are you doing in Venice” or wherever. We are all doing the same thing, passengers are divided in groups which determine when you head out on the zodiacs. The red group meets at 9:15 AM, Blue at 9:30, Yellow at 11:00 and so on. Each day there are lectures where we are going, the wildlife the geography, how they navigate in ice, and so on. Each evening there is a recap/briefing of what we saw that day and the plan for tomorrow. Most days these were separated by language something like- French at 6:15, English at 7:00. After that it’s time for drinks or dinner.

What are the passengers like:

The youngest passenger we met was 17, the oldest, perhaps mid-eighties. The majority were somewhere between 50 and early 70’smany of whom were retired. You don’t need to be a marathon runner (although we met quite a few of those) but you do have to be mobile enough to get in and out of a zodiac boat and walk on rocky uneven ground. Hiking poles and walking sticks were used by many, and while I often use them on long hikes (especially steep slopes and wet ground) I didn’t bring mine and didn’t miss them. People come on this trip for the sights, many had never been on a cruise of any kind. It is a well-traveled, adventurous, and friendly group. We started out with a table for two but before long became part of a wonderful, international crew with a section in the dining room for 20-30. The group revolved around an effervescent dynamo of a woman named Cindy traveling with her husband Dave and three friends. You don’t expect an attorney to be the life of the party, but she is such a force of joie de vivre that we kept expecting the cruise line to offer her a job. Maybe they will soon.

Caviar and champagne by the pool and pink drinks among the icebergs

How was the food?

One of the appeals of a French ship is French food and wine. All beverages- wine, cocktails, cappuccinos are included. There are upgraded options, but the included ones were very good. On gala nights, where they rolled out fancier dishes and wines, even better. By and large food was excellent. A few undercooked risottos and overcooked fish, but servers would swiftly whisk those away and replace with something else on request.

There is so much to show and tell, stay tuned for more! If you have any questions, leave a comment by clicking the contact/subscribe link and I will answer in the next post. In the meantime, enjoy the pictures!